Ushuaia (guest entry by Nina & Lorenz)

From El Calafate Katja and Luka continued their journey to Chile, while Lorenz and I boarded a plane and flew approx. 1000 km southwards to the “End of the World”. Already the view from the plane window as we were landing was breathtaking: Ushuaia is a tiny town nestled between the Beagle Channel and the snow-covered Fuegan Andes. Picturesque small houses and fishermen’s boats contrast the fancy cruise-liners in the harbor. The small town center, which encompasses one main street, boasts restaurants offering tasty spider-crab dishes (Ushuaia specialty – yummy!) and shops where tourists can take advantage of the tax-free zone. Ushuaia is commonly used as a base for hiking in the nearby mountains and glaciers of the National park Tierra del Fuego. Furthermore, sailboat trips and cruises to the “White Continent” start from there.

We boarded an excursion boat to explore the wildlife of the Beagle Channel. Small rocky islands are scattered in the sea, most of them covered by animals such as King and Blue-eyed Cormorants, Albatrosses and Sea Lions. Lone lighthouses stand on others. After about an hour boat ride, we finally arrive at the main attraction: Isla Martillo, where the Magellanic Penguins breed. Hundreds of little black & white creatures, wobbling side-to-side as they walked up to the boat to observe the new arrivals.

The runway of the Ushuaia airport

 

Ushuaia city and harbour

Yummy spider crab... 

...cooked by “Auntie Nina” :)
 

King cormorants and sea lions bathing in the sun

Secluded lighthouses at the end of the world

Magellanic penguins – soooo cute!

Even the penguins keep fit here :)

Patagonia

This is where all our warm clothes came out of the backpack. We have worn every single one of them except the ski underwear. First stop: El Calafate. A village at first glance like in the series Northern exposure. And wind, lots of it. Our first idea: where can we rent windsurf equipment, the water is so nice, flat and light blue…but inside there are some small icebergs…so maybe not this time after the wonderful warm waters in Jeri. Believe it or not we saw 2 guys on the water, later that day.

Since we are four people, Nina, Lorenz and us decide to rent a car. Which is a great idea, except the prices aren’t exactly what was written on the internet pages or in Lonely Planet and since it’s high season, no more cars are available at the airport. We try our luck in town and after realizing that it is virtually impossible to get a car with full insurance here (apparently ‘flip overs’ are quite common), since all of the rentals were warning us not to flip it over, we rent a ‘dusty’ VW Gol. Dusty meaning you are barely able to open the doors and the brakes squeal a lot J Just don’t flip it over! After Lorenz and Luka asked why does everyone say that, the answer is simply ‘Where do you live?’ So it becomes our moto for the next three days and the road trip is on! Immediately after driving out of El Calafate towards Perito Moreno Glacier we realize that the winds are very fierce here, making opening the doors and going for a pee by the side of the road very difficult J and flipping over a car is very possible. We manage 100km per hour at max speed and it takes us about an hour to get to the glacier. It is absolutely amazing! The pictures below cannot do it justice. And the sound of the ice cracking and falling into the icy waters 60 m below is just breathtaking. We spend a few hours there and then drive for another 3,5 hours to El Chalten, where we planned to do some trekking to see Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy. It’s a scenic drive on the legendary Route 40 with lots of wind, spectacular views, occasional guanacos and vultures. Only a few cars pass us and on the way we  stop at the Estancia La Estella for some tea and a promise to come back when we are rich J We make it to El Chalten just in time for nightfall at 11pm. The next day we take a hike to Laguna Torre under Cerro Torre and it’s a moderately strenuous 5 hour hike (both ways). The view is spectacular. Next day we take a shorter route to a lookout of Fitz Roy and when meeting Nina and Lorenz we find out someone had left the lights on in the car! No problem since everyone has old cars here and its cold even in summer (we wear fleece and jackets in the evenings) and we start the car with cables. After another long drive back to El Calafate, Nina and Lorenz take us out for another yummy steak :) This time we took a picture! 

my first mate

 vulture

 Perito Moreno glacier

our car and an estancia

coming back here when we're rich :)

it's windy!

Fitz Roy

woodpecker

alpaca

Cerro Torre
 

freezing water 

someone went for a swim with icebergs

relaxing after a 6 hour hike

10 pm and still light

last look at the mountains of El Chalten

steak

Buenos Aires

We were excited (especially Katja) about eating the famed Argentinian steaks. Also the wine, which is supposed to be better and cheaper than in Brazil. We stayed in Microcentro, which is very busy during the day, but also walking distance to San Telmo and Recoleta (the part of BA where Evita Peron is buried). We found BA to have a very European feel to it and the weather was unbelievable. Probably for the first time during our travels it was not too hot or humid J. We ate great steaks and of course were always too hungry to remember to take any pictures until our plates were already empty!

We were invited to spend New Year Eve with Kirill and Anya, a really nice couple from Katja’s favorite city –San Francisco of course :) at their place in Palermo. We had met them in Iguazu and already then shared our first bottle of Malbec together. There was an international crowd and all had a wonderful time. It was great to try all the different food, wines and to spend NY in Hawaianas J Thanks guys for making sure it will be a New Year celebration to remember!!

On Jan 1^st Luka watched Miran Stanovnik at the start of the Dakar race from Buenos Aires across Argentina and Chile. Priceless J

After some tango in La Boca it was time to head south. 3000km south. A long way even by plane, to Southern Patagonia.

 New Year party!!!!

 Catedral Metropolitana

 Casa Rosada

 making empanadas

 Palacio del Congreso

old tram line still working

 Dakar truck

 Recoleta cemetery

 solar flower

old theater turned into bookstore

steak house in San Telmo

  streets of Palermo

 Miran Stanovnik

1.1.2011 on the start of Dakar

fans cheering on the streets of BA

 Puerto Madero

soccer is big thing in Argentina, locals love to play it in free time

Ecological reserve in the city

Puente de la Mujer

tango in the streets of La Boca

street performers around San Telmo

with Kirill and Anya in San Telmo

Slovene flag

˝zlata roka mamina˝

Boca Juniors stadium

meat meat meat